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Oozing Oriental

By Priyanka Swami

This is to bring on board the oriental flavour that gives you much liberty to experiment with your look while you, being a groom, saunter through your wedding ceremonies. Remember, a few elements can also up the ante if at all you are skeptical about going all-oriental.

While sherwanis are a staple for an Indian groom, keeping your eyes on savoury trends and putting that extra effort to look your breezy best on other ceremonies doesn’t require much sweat. After all, it’s about your dream day!
“Usually grooms prefer to stick to classic silhouettes for their traditional ceremonies, and that is a sensible choice as wedding pictures make a memory that lasts one's lifetime. However, samurai pants could be a trendy option to team with the sherwanis,” comments ace designer Kunal Anil Tanna.
Putting things in perspective, we bring to you an emerging trend that has all eyes rolling—the oriental couture. And our pick of this issue being samurai pants and kimono jackets, we delve deeper into the many aspects of structure, wearability, and style of these trappings.

While samurai pants are a baggy yet sassy successor to the regular straight trouser, kimono jackets just wrap you up in magnificence. Traditionally, the Japanese kimono is wrapped in several layers, and a number of accessories and ties are used to hold it correctly. The outfit gives a quintessential feminine look to a man. Generally, kimono jackets are paired with a top and wraparound skirt and tied by a datemaki belt and zori sandals. Characterising elaborate colour bursts, these are conventionally adorned with rhombic and floral motifs and come in variety of fabrics, such as silk, velvet, wool and other synthetic fabrics.

The Indian palette for grooms is traditional and opulent. Off late, groom’s wear has seen a rich use of variety of fabrics, embroidery, and embellishments, much like the case in bridal wear. It’s time that we give a little twist to the otherwise sherwani-achkan centric ceremony as a whole. With designers concentrating on blending cultures and adding more oomph to the subtle Indian groom’s wear palette, we see oriental cuts and motifs making their way to the Indian fashion Diaspora.

Why Oriental

Well only to add that dash of freshness in your wedding wardrobe. For starters, imagine a unique look amped up with Japanese-themed styles and rhombic motifs and you will know! And just to remind you, it’s autumn approaching, so layering up won’t do much harm.

These days, the fashion coterie is keen on these A-line silhouettes and geometric motifs and introducing them into formal attire, samurai pants and kimono jackets being its biggest outlets of oriental expression.

Designer duo Deepak Parwani and Nitin Singh from the men’s wear label BO Square comment, “Samurai pants and kimono jackets are loose and comfortable. And seeing the Indian market trends, comfort always rules when it comes to fashion. So the oriental clothing fits well in our market and is slightly far-fetched.”

Kunal Anil Tanna advocates, “With destination weddings being a huge rage nowadays, it gives the groom much room to experiment with his attire. There are a lot of celebratory events around the main function when a groom can easily consider wearing samurai pants or a kimono-inspired jacket amalgamated with the traditional staples.”

Keeping in mind the Indian traditional edge and the significance that it holds in a wedding, the designer has created a colourful oriental line for the contemporary groom, which exudes remarkable elegance while combining the oriental cuts and Indian lineage effortlessly. It not only paints a stylish yet classic picture but calls on fashion that sets the tone for infectiously charming men’s wear.

The Indian-Oriental Groom

The BO Square designers decode an absolute Indian-Oriental groom for us. They say, “Royal blue falling crepe samurai pants with purple satin detailing, along with navy blue raw silk bandhgala would work really well for an Indian groom. Or else, a high Madrid collar, few inches above the knee, amped up with copper buttons and a long gold chain accessory which goes all the way to the pants, and cuffs detailed with purple print would be a fantastic choice.”
Continuing further, the duo suggests that the entire look can be augmented with tan or burgundy shoes.
Well, if you don’t want to become a result of a fashion experiment, we would suggest you to stick to your sherwani but add little oriental elements to the overall look. Kunal Anil Tanna recommends, “A structured kimono inspired overlap short sherwani with samurai pants should be ideal. Make sure you pair the silhouettes with structured garments to make the look seem more formal. Samurai pants could be worn with a tunic shirt for a less formal occasion and one can add a bandi jacket and be a little more formal.”

Adding to this, Deepak Parwani and Nitin Singh say, “You can reinvent your samurai pants into looking like a dhoti with a jacket that's not too conventional. Or you can pair the bottoms with a bandhgala or even a collared kurta. Also instead of much of embroidery, one can go for rich textured fabrics and break out from the gold-beige family and instead give in to brighter shades like yellow or purple.” Nodding in absolute agreement, we also feel that brighter hues are very much in these days, and if the brights are not your thing, choose subtle pastels that are most preferred in autumn.

Offering more choices, the duo proposes pairing of samurai pants and tight-fitted shirt or t-shirt. They continue, “Samurai pants are great when worn over a waistcoat and a shirt. Kimono Jackets, on the other hand, could be paired with loose trousers or ripped pants depending upon the body type.”

Remember that the pants should be neatly fitted complemented with side-parted gelled hair lending a sleek finish to your overall look. Tie-up leather belts are also a very good option to glam up your outfit, and you can try Japanese inspired matted moccasins as well.
The BO Square designers recommend nice pair of dark shades, brown or black duffle bag for occasions other than your wedding. And if you are carrying an oriental-themed look on your wedding, they say a long body gold chain or a heavy stoned belt for the jacket would be your safest bets.

The Japanese-themed styles call for urban and masculine aesthetics and for a designer to complement the same with fine cuts is no less than a task. So, always make sure that you communicate your needs to the designer in the most defined manner. This way, it will be easier for you to not go oriental completely, yet add little elements of the traditional Japan.

Designers Deepak Parwani and Nitin Singh elaborate, “Normally in bespoke, if the garment is cut well and made as per the body type, then one doesn’t need to worry but yes, talking about the cuts and styles for the Japanese clothing, the cuts may vary. If one is top-heavy, the kimono jacket should be made in a way that it is longer towards the knees. Whereas, for samurai pants, the fabrics that largely fall well with the garment would be falling polyester-thick crepe or a blend of raw silk or even organza.”

They further state that the construction of a samurai pant is generally very loose and free flowing but to make it more wearable it should be cut well, more fitted on the waist and hips and free flowing from mid-thigh onwards.

So while you opt for fresh oriental silhouettes for your wedding ceremonies, be sure of the cuts you get as per your body type and take cues from our designers’ style palette to accessorise the garments well with quintessential oriental add-ons and of course, your magical Indian charm!

So this season, let Oriental drift your fashion plum!

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