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Kundan Karisma Polki Poise

By Sanhati Banerjee

The kundan-polki duo has been the bridal main­stay since time immemorial with its effervescent charm. This combine represents the classic charm expressed in an array of stunning colours and a beautiful symphony of shapes. Today, this tradi­tional duo has surpassed its own limits and has lent itself to a variety of fusion forms and designs. Explore the K-P of these versatile pieces.

Polki Jeweller

The kundan-polki combination has its own mysticism and magic that has been passed on by gen­erations. With an aus­picious note tucked into these pieces, they have been one of the most precious favourites in the bridal paradise for a long time. The only problem that had somewhat started casting a shadow on the relevance of these traditional bridal heavyweights was the weighty look! With most bride-to-be belonging to the weight-watching generation, they started turning to light-weight bridal jewellery with a sophisticated, cosmopolitan feel. Interestingly, studding traditional pieces of jewellery with semi-precious stones and coloured gemstones be­came an avowed trend as it perfectly satisfied the taste of the bling brigade and looked lovely on all occasions — weddings, parties and social dos. And, fortunately for the kundan-polki combine, there was nothing to worry, as they in any way came studded with gemstones and precious stones. This explains its survival in the current age of innovation.

Mapping the Mystique
Kundan jewellery survives as one of the oldest forms of jewellery made and worn in India. It is made in 24 carat pure gold. It in­volves an intricate method of gem-setting, wherein foils of gold are inserted between the stones. Bearing the hallmark of traditional Rajasthani craftsmanship, this form of jewellery making received royal patronage during the Mughal era. A particular piece of jewel­lery is first shaped by a trained craftsman or karigar, who fuses in imageries from nature, bridal folklore and the like in the specia­lised shape. Holes are cut out for the various pieces which are going to be studded on – diamonds, rubies, emeralds, pearls etc, and then engraving is carried out and at the final stage, enamelling is carried out upon the pieces. When the stones are to be set, lac is inserted in the holes from the back, which is then, visible from the front. Kundan, which is actually highly refined gold, is then used to cover the lac, which then acts as a case, into which the stones are inserted. More kundan is then applied upon the edges to strengthen the settings.

Polkis refer to uncut diamonds, which specify a type of diamonds. Polki jewellery can also refer to the form of jewellery that makes use of coloured stones.

Kundan-polki jewellery are available to the bride-to-be in a variety of traditional, fusion and designer styles.

Beautifully Bridal
This timeless school of wedding jewellery offers a significantly huge world of variations. From heavy neckpieces with arresting pendant, chokers, bangles, bracelets, tiaras, nathbands, bajubands, haathphool, payals — it has all that takes to adorn the bride from head-to-toe. Siddhartha Sacheti, Vice-President, Operations, Jaipur Gems, says “Polki-kundan has been the traditional style of jewellery for adornment of the bride for the main wedding cere­mony. An amalgamation of pearls, rubies, diamonds and emeralds within the intricately designed kundan-polki work are coming back in vogue in a big way. The use of semi-precious stones that was used a lot in polki and kundan jewellery pieces are in vouge these days. Keeping in sync with the trends, Jaipur Gems, has in store a range of collection from mesemerising neck­pieces, exclusive chandelier earrings, the traditional haslis, adiyas, karanphools, bajubandhs, sarpech, maang teeka and jadau bracelets.”

The dazzling shades of coloured gemstones set in yellow gold, rose gold, etc make for adorable combinations with the right play upon tradition and modernity.

The shapes resemble a multiple variety of flowers and stems and are engraved in lush imageries from nature. Many modern jewel­lery houses offer a contemporary cocktail flavour by attaching ribbons, laces and strings, which also helps these pieces bring out a delicately feminine touch. The green hues of emerald, the shiny white or pearls, the dazzling brilliance of diamonds, the pinkish and reddish glow of rubies and a whole paradise of peaches, pinks and maroon of the semi-precious stones make for some of the most brilliant hues available in kundans and polkis.

The Fusion-Chic Appeal
The current variations are many, which means you do not have to compromise on your taste and desire to be fashion-savvy with the wedding jewellery you are wearing. You can also blend kundan-polki pieces with Indo-western outfits.
Mahesh Jagwani, director, Mahesh Notandass says, “Choose jewellery, which can add shimmer to the outfit. Kundan-polki jewellery has evolved in all terms like designs, patterns, styles, looks etc. as per the customer’s needs. They are new, innovative and come in a range of breathtak­ing designs that strike the right note with the avant-garde customers.”

Siddhartha Sacheti says, “This trend-setting form of bridal jewellery is for those who desire exclusivity and prominence. It is bold, elegant and desirable.”

The Bridal Handbook
If you are shopping for your wedding, cocktail or reception jewellery make sure you are choosing designs that are not laidback and offer something in terms of verve and energy so that you do not look outdated. Looking aristocratic in antique pieces and outdated with a redundant style statement are two different things. While the former spells a royal charm, the latters raises eyebrows. However, remember, the older the work on the kundan piece, the more intricate its design and more dazzling its colour.

Look for pieces that are subtle yet glamor­ous as far as the colour combination goes as too much of a colour burst can make you look like a ‘rainbow bride’.

These days, kundan-polki work are also being used by designers on bridal attires in the form of coloured glass or uncut stones.
With these hot trends on your side, you will surely be having a lot more to grab and feel wow.

Write a Review...

Reviews 2
raaj [ 14 Jul 2011 ]
we are manufacturers and wholesellers of

ct gold kundan and diamond polki jewellery. for more details please visit our website thanks

Loree [ 24 Jan 2012 ]
Way to go on this essay, helped a ton.