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Jewellery Report Treasure Island

By Sanhati Banerjee

Jewels are for a lifetime. They are soul sisters, ornamented glories, precious possessions and much more. There is a saying that jewellery can take the attention away from a woman’s wrinkles. Such is its hypnotic power. Here are a boxful of trends that have emerged on the runways of IIJW 2011, that can keep you ringed in the jewellery quotient of the upcoming festive and bridal season.


The Fables of Royalty
Mughal/Rajasthani: The ‘Jewels of Falaknuma’ collection by Tanishq presented a beautiful combination of the most outstanding Rajasthani and Deccani workmanship with intricate enamel work, nakkashi (Repoussé) and techniques of temple jewellery. The jewels in the collection are gracefully crafted in gold and highlighted with exquisite enameling, are set with lustrous emeralds, pearls from Basra, Burmese rubies and rose cut diamonds. Various elements originally used in the Nizam jewels are reinterpreted and some of the iconic shapes and motifs like the crescent moon and lotus have also been incorporated.
The Royal Collection by YS 18 presented cuffs with a tantalising cluster of stones, giant onyx with a mélange of tiny gems, a garden of green Peridots, tourmalines and citrines; the diamond and emerald asymmetric necklace and the leaf design earrings.
The Mélange range by Birdhichand offered a delicate mix of Western designs and Indian techniques as motifs of Harappan and Mesopotamian civilisations came together for various ornaments. The Hunar range had kundan and enamelled jewellery featuring the festive colours of Rajasthan as kundan and meenakari added to the beauty of the ornaments.
Amrapali captured the essence of Jaipur through rough and non-lustrous stones in shades of brown, red, orange etc. Other warm colours were used to give an ethnic look.
Working around the theme of the “Enchanted Garden” and the Mughal vision of “Paradise on Earth”, Alpana Gujral created a range of flowers, trees and colours stirring up a melodious tune for the jewellery using glittering rubies, emeralds and sapphires. The ornaments ranged from earrings, cuffs, bracelets, to necklaces and rings which were hand crafted. There were floral motifs, meenakari work, tassel ends on medallion pendants of floral design hanging from pearl strands matching the fringed pearl earrings. Large onyx in varying cuts was attached to gleaming gold. Traditional pendants hung from ropes of pearls and rubies and a mix of topaz, pearls, and precious stones came together in an abstract riveting design. Fish shaped jades were at the centre with ruby pendants, while double floral medallions swung from pearl onyx chains. Uncut jades and jadeites with floral engraving and fine rubalite beads with asymmetric diamond circles were innovative.
Working together in creative harmony the beautiful collection by Dipti and Amisha was a stunning blend of the glory of Mughal influences with the grandeur of British designs of monarchy. There was also a delicate touch of the French era and ancient Indian cultures but with the contemporary edge given to the pieces with style and elegance. Titled “A Treasure with Measure” the collection glittered with a melange of gold beads, rubies, emeralds, and diamonds coming together in perfect harmony for the mix of ethnic and modern pieces. The highlights of the show were the burnished gold bead lined diamond pendants, cuffs with floral design, the sphere shaped multi circular pendant and the Indian hoops teamed with circular necklace. Peridots lined the diamonds for a Victorian style set, while floral encrusted bracelets and multi stone strands of pearls and gold glittered. A 3D diamond piece with bold beads and a multi chains and gold beaded neckpiece and a gold shell shaped version were literally breathtaking.

The Shapes of Desire
Magnificent collars with moulded triangular diamond pieces, the heart shaped emerald pendants, the asymmetric swirl of onyx edging an uncut diamond collar, diamonds flowing into rows of gold circular spirals and the chandelier earrings with pearl drops were some of the shapes flaunted on the runway.
The bridal collection by Dwarkadas Chdumal showcased earrings in shapes that ranged from rectangle, swinging trellis versions, giant lacy paisleys to pear shaped beauties, looped hoops and giant tear drops with gorgeous ruby insets.
Bell shaped earrings and the inverted pyramid shape stunning diamond necklace from Laxmi Jewellers were the other stunning shapes visible on the runway.

Festive Flamboyance
There were collections that ringed with the notes of ornamented charm. The collection by Manubhai Gems offered a V shaped three tiered diamond and emerald inset beauty for the neck, while ruby chains held the polki chokers in place. Shades of yellow topaz with white pearls with gold gave the necklace a stunning impact, while the many rani haars were often teamed with equally grand chokers. Necklaces were entwined at the shoulders and ended in sparkling peaks edged with pearls and the triple circular flat necklace was an unconventional bridal offering.
A pearl string with a diamante pendant, a set in black diamonds, a sunburst necklace and a draped flat collar with baguette rubies and pearl drop were the sumptuous festive offerings to the fashionable woman by Pooja Patel.
Delicate gold diamond sets, armlets, bracelets, rings, rani haars, kaan phools, lacy flat collars, curved U shaped diamond emerald pieces and the five prong creations with emerald tips, and uneven sparks of diamond bursts with ruby edges are stunning festive styling options offered by Surana Gems and Jewels.

Signatures of Style
The Mughal, specially created by Agni CZ with 18 K gold and Swarovski components was a miniature replica of Noor Jehan’s balcony with two peacocks on either side and tied with a bronze silk tassel.
The Floral Fantasy necklace by Agni – a 3D piece in 18K gold with Swarovski components was anchored with a luxurious silk scarf. The piece inspired by Mother Nature was in shades of green, orchid and pink.
One of the major highlights of the show was the shirt collar inspired tiered necklace and earrings and the baguette emeralds in a thick moulded piece as well as the stupendous rose cut bridal haar.
The scintillating graduating kundan necklaces with large Basra pearl drops, the Cleopatra style wide collar with dazzling polkis stretching over shoulders with specs of rubies and emeralds and the arresting pearl and gold beads rani haar were some of the signature pieces by Laxmi Jewels.

Layers of Drama
Rows of corals, leafy diamond pendants on gold chains, floral centres, pearl and diamond studded earrings and a velvet ribbon with a glittering pendant were some of the emphatic points of Meenu Patodia’s collection. Rows of pearls were tasseled cleverly for a pair of earrings and bracelet, while coloured stones and small pearls and a three prong pearl pendant made for some inventive designs by Sana Qureshi. The final Christmas tree inspired design for the earrings and necklace set had a marked festive touch. Opening the show with a multi sphere necklace and earrings, Shipra Todi added on a delicate fish net design earrings and matching necklace with rubies. These were followed by the two rows of diamonds with a striking ruby and diamond pendant at the end. The lacy diamond set was the ideal for a bridal offering with its lush design and intricate workmanship.

Seasonal Blushes
The “Romance of the Peacock - Emperor of Monsoon” collection by Jewels Emporium saw a magnificent line of gold and gems along with the intricate craft of French enamelling in more than 350 different shades featuring Basse Taille, Champleve and Plique-a-jour. Presenting the peacock inspiration in five collections called ‘lotus’, ‘floral’, ‘heirloom’, ‘contemporary’ and ‘music to my ears’, the colours of the majestic peacock’s feathers like blue, orange, green and gold appeared to highlight the ornaments.

Scintillating Tradition
The Utsavi range by Manubhai Gems had the intricate detailing and richness of diamonds and pearls all studded onto gold. The mehendi-inspired designs unfoled as the trellised luxurious necklaces, pearls imbedded in layers of gold, the three scalloped polki creations, the shoulder dusters with chandelier shapes and the triple circular flat neck pieces were part of the grandiose bridal jewellery. Large uncut emeralds formed a chain with pearls and a three tiered pair of earrings fringed with rows of rubies were offered by Anmol Jewellers. Bracelets, intricate rings bangles, floral shaped diamond choker with ruby centres and pearl drops, giant paisley ruby earrings and brilliant faceted diamonds completed the perfect trousseau look.


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