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Dandies Most Wanted



By Visweswar Reddy

As we all swear by the maxim that classics are classics, there’s no denying the fact that a suit maketh a man. A man’s manly vibe, characteristic masculine charm and the reflection of smart yet sexy persona is best brought out by a formal suit. It is the right combination of personalised style with universal appeal that makes a suit work for a man.

Mens Suits

What can be a fashion statement for a man can turn out to be a fashion disaster for another. So it’s very important for an aspiring groom to study his body well before he chooses his reception suit. Here are some home truths.
Traditionally, men would dress up in clean, sophisticated and elegant formal wear to be a perfect foil to his graceful female companion sporting brighter hues and elaborate designs. This traditional sartorial sense has now seen a crossover of sorts with fusion dressing coming in and especially in our context, Indianisation of the Western staple — tuxedo suits, having changed the contours and sensibility of men’s dressing. Yet, there remains some suit sentiments or values like the basic grammar of any language that remains firm despite its malleability to give way to a new lexicon every now and then.
Suiting the Ceremony
The traditional formal daytime ceremony calls for a dark grey cutaway, an ascot, vest and striped trousers.
The semi-formal daytime version allows for a regular length grey or black stroller coat with a necktie, vest and striped trousers. As an alternative, many men today opt for a tuxedo in a darker shade.
An ultra formal evening ceremony calls for white tie — a black tailcoat with white pique accessories.
A formal evening reception simply requires a black tuxedo with appropriate accessories.
A semi-formal evening ceremony calls for a black or dark colour tuxedo or a dinner jacket with black formal trousers.
The new destination wedding ceremonies call for tuxedos in vibrant colours with subtle embroidery patterns and lighter weight fabrics. Accessories can be coordianted according to the theme. Formal shoes should always be worn with a tuxedo. Black dress socks and shoes should be worn with black or dark-coloured tuxedos. White and ivory shoes can be worn with white and ivory-shaded tuxedos. If you are wearing a vest and plan to take off your jacket, choose a full back vest. Cuff links and studs should match. A boutonnière should be worn on the left lapel and should tilt slightly outward.
Figuring it Out
Brides aren’t the only ones who need to worry about perfecting their fugure flaws. Grooms can kill with looks as well if they choose suits that will enhance their body types.
Short and slender grooms should look for single-breasted jackets with long lines, a low-button stance (it elongates the body) and wide peak lapels. Other stylish options include wearing a doublebreasted tuxedo jacket or a subtly patterned vest and tie. The perfect pant leg should always break slightly on top of the shoe and angle a bit downward in the back.
Short and stocky grooms with athletic or muscular body types look best in tuxedo jackets with slim shawl collars. Also, choose jackets with a natural shoulder line and avoid the broader varieties. When it comes to pants, reverse double-pleated trousers with pleats extending toward the pockets tend to elongate the leg.
Tall and husky grooms with broad shoulders and muscular frames look best in shawl-collar tuxedos. Your fingertips should just touch the bottom of the jacket and his shirt cuff should extend half an inch beyond the jacket sleeve. The construction of the jacket may need to be a bit loose to provide ease of movement. Grooms with thick necks and wide faces should avoid too narrow ties and wing-tip collars that look constrictive. Instead, opt for lay-down collars and fuller bow ties. The pant legs should have a slightly wider silhouette to accommodate muscular thighs.
Athletic grooms with extremely broad shoulders and slim waists are a tailoring challenge. The best bet will be
to go for a perfectly bespoken suit. The best style choice is a single or two-button jacket with a shawl collar. Keep the accessories elegant, yet subtle.
The Fitting Deal
Once you’ve selected the the most flattering shape and style for your figure, you have to get the right fit.
Try to choose your tuxedos at least three months before the wedding. This will give you time to get immaculate fittings done and customise it perfectly. So, get ready to look fashion-savvy!
 

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