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Courting the AutumnWinter Couture Trends



By Priyanka Swami

Fall for the beaming trends frosting up fashion this wedding season! Transiting from the summery sass to the autumn-ish spell, it’s time we pamper the edgy you with the latest and the finest groom’s wear fashion mores that are trending and all set to add drama to your wedding wardrobe.

Though designers have drawn our attention towards candy colours and refreshing linens, the to-be-grooms still tend to choose something less flashy and comfortable and end up picking up that typical red or beige sherwani (the most predictable Indian groom’s attire) or the regular black or blue blazer.

 

We believe with an augmented fashion horizon, candy is no more the women’s Bogart. From block-printed kurtas and sherwanis to embroidery embellishments and white-is-the-new-black credo, the groom’s wear compass has a de novo chart for you to explore and experiment with.

 

Come autumn followed by winter, pastels and intense silhouettes redefine the palette.

 

We saw designers playing with pastel bandhgalas with peach dhotis, dark jackets paired with palazzos, and much more at the Indian Couture Week this year, kicking off a new fashion lean for the autumn-winter wedding season.

 

Let’s check out the blazing couture trends for the suitors.

 

Groom’s Wear Gamut

 

Entering the suitor’s castle is fortuity! Egressing from the stereotypical fashion domain, the horizon for groom’s wear has widened, and is distinctly dapper. Designer Parul J Maurya who runs her own label, Parul J, says that wedding functions are so spread out nowadays that one has the choice to experiment with various styles and fabrics.

 

Adding further, she asserts that “a groom-to-be can choose a well tailored tuxedo for a cocktail party, linen pathani for mehendi, draped Indo-Westerns for pre-nuptials and a well accessorised sherwani for his D-day”—the range has a lot more to offer.

 

Vandy Mehra, group director, Study By Janak, feels that when it comes to Indian grooms, traditional wear never loses its charm. She says “Beginning from the splendour and style of the ancient Maharajas and Mughal emperors, India’s rich sartorial heritage is making a comeback to the centrestage of the fashion industry. Now, even top international designers have started to draw inspiration from classic Indian designs. Jodhpuri coat is the Indian answer to the lounge suit or tuxedo. The sherwani is the most classic Indian garment and carries a lot of scope for the fashion designers to experiment with.”

 

 

She adds that the contemporary groom is now making informed choices and not picking his ensembles, just because he has to wear one.

 

For the upcoming autumn-winter wedding season, Parul J says, “This season, structured draping in men’s wear will enable men to wear silhouettes like never before.” She further adds, “Pre-draped pants and dhotis with sherwanis and Jodhpuri coats will be on the cards this wedding season.” The designer also feels that lots of layering, pleating, exquisite detailing and the use of uncut precious stones for embellishments will add that touch of regal splendour. Besides these, velvet is known for its luxurious texture, so can be used for highlighting.

 


On the other hand, Vandy Mehra thinks that adding colours to the groom’s ensembles yet sticking to the classic silhouettes will do the fashion trick for the groom-to-be. She asserts “Nowadays, grooms-to-be are picking Anarkali silhouettes for their sherwanis with intricate embroidery in zardozi, silk threads and dabka, which gives more opulent and rich feel to the garment. Also, stoles and accessories like kalgi and button chains are making a comeback.”

 

The Fitting Fabrics and Cuts

 

Fabric forms the bedrock of any splendid design, for it takes the artistry to another level and the right cuts, they complement the design most befittingly. Parul J feels that rich brocades, traditional silks and jamewar have always been the most preferred fabrics for groom’s wear.

 

She further says “Satin and velvet are great for detailing as it is said that luxury is in the details.” As for the cuts and styling, she suggests that the cuts should be such that they reflect a groom’s personal style and aren’t overbearing.

 

As for Vandy Mehra, the use of rich fabric, jewel tones, and uncut stones for embellishments give the best look to the groom. She says “Grooms also get the choice to experiment with various styles and fabrics; from semi-formal blazers to tuxedos; from dhotis and bandhgalas to sherwanis; there is so much to choose from!”

 

The Pursuit of Pastel

 

The Indian Couture Week 2014 embraced pastel yarns to render the groom’s wardrobe fantasy. Drifting from the typical red and pearly shades, designers like Anju Modi and Sabyasachi presented bandhgalas with peach dhotis and block print kurtas respectively— for the love of peaches and cream. We also spotted the jutti-brogue amalgamation in pastel shades. So, undoubtedly, pastel is the season’s blush!

 

 

However, designer Parul J thinks that pastels find their presence mostly in pathani kurtas, Jawahar jackets and shirts. According to her, plentiful of gold, unconventional pistachio, deep rust, ivory, jewel tones, wild fuchsia and a wilder colour palette are being used for sherwanis and traditional attires.

With the same view, Vandy Mehra says, “Though pastels colours are somewhat liked, but honestly, when it comes to a wedding, everyone wants to look grand and feel opulent, so the colour palette is bent towards the richer shades––gold, beige or creams with tonal or contrast embroidery on it.”

 

In Vogue

 

Now that the groom’s wear range has been elevated, let’s find out what is popular among the grooms-to-be. Parul J tells us that tone-to-tone gold sherwanis with intricate zardozi embroidery and Mughal motifs are still the wedding favourites. She adds, “Bandhgalas in multi-coloured brocades, ombre jackets, floral printed blazers, draped kurtas, and dhotis will hit the style chart this season.”

 

Also, she feels that kurtas with chikankaari work complemented by traditional silhouettes give a very classy and contemporary feel to the groom.

 

 

“Our latest range of sherwanis in a contrast palette and the Anarkali silhouettes are really appreciated” says Vandy Mehra. She mentions that keeping the base colours soft, Study By Janka offers embroidery detailing which is intricately done with zari, zardozi, and dabka being used on silk brocades.

 

Adding further, she says, “This time we have also used flowy fabrics like georgettes and organza in the sherwanis, giving a rich feel to it. We have also done a sherwani line with bright blues as its palette, complementing it with gold.”

 

Indian men look great in traditional attires and there are various options to go with the ethnic range. Concurring with this view, Parul J says, “Palazzo pyjamas with flared kurta and sherwani would be the wonderful choices for a groom-to-be. It would add great character to his personality.” She adds that a groom needs to hit a balance between his look and the accessories like beautiful brocade safa, mojaris and a silk stole.

 

Vandy Mehra finds an Anarkali-silhouette sherwani in tonal colour with tonal handwork embroideries on silk brocades and organza will be a perfect choice for a groom-to-be.

 

Now, that you know what kinds of looks can be sported across the ceremonies and what all you can choose from these creatively done exquisite creations that scream style and glamour; make the choices that will flatter your body and personality. 

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